Postcard from Kings Canyon

Dear Fellow Travellers

Mum and I had be dreading Kings Canyon since I suggested going there so it only seemed fitting that the caravan tyre wold burst on our way there, just to drag out the anticipation. A quick tyre change and a 90 minute wait at the tyre shop we were finally on the road.

The Canyon

To help you all understand why it was mum and I were dreading Kings Canyon, is well because of the canyon. No we are not afraid of heights in fact I’m the opposite, I love to look down, it was more the climb to the top that got us. Now we’re not unfit and incapable of exercise but I wouldn’t be putting us in the ‘can run a marathon’ category. I think it was the 500 steep rock stair climb that really got us. Nonetheless when we arrived at Kings Canyon we were delighted to have one of, if not the best site in the park with a stunning view of the canyon. I was around sunset when the canyon lit up red that it occurred to me that we would be climbing all the way to the top and let me tell you it’s a fair way up.

The first 100 stairs or so

D-Day had arrived and we were up early to beat the heat, we didn’t want to pass out half way up. As we walked towards the dreaded stairs we realised the colourful dots were actually people, who resembled ants on a giant hill.  Mum decided she would be the last in our convoy (she was the slowest) so dad stuck with her and lead the way. To my surprise I actually powered up the stairs, I was no Cathy Freeman mind you, but I had a good pace. Only stopping a few times (I actually caught up to people in front of me) I finally made it to the top and one look at the view made the burning in my thighs worth it.  

The view from the top

Once on top of the canyon the walk flattened out, thank god and showed us a completely different version of the desert. Taking all the detours we could and climbing over as many rocks as we could we were treated to some of the most amazing views. I know how cliché it is to sit on the cliff edge with your feet dangling over contemplating life but I did it anyway. Looking out over the desert I couldn’t help feel a tad patriotic that this is my country and also a bit proud that I climbed all the way up here. 

Garden of Eden

As we walked on we finally came to the Garden of Eden. Unlike how I imagined the biblical garden this garden is more an oasis. Spread along a gorge floor (mum wasn’t happy that there were ore stairs) the Garden of Eden is filled with native trees and plants and even a flowing creek. Situated at the end of the gorge and creek is a massive waterhole that has been the lifeline in the canyon for centuries. Also used by the indigenous for hunting and survival over thousands of years you can really feel the history, lame I know but it’s a see it to believe it thing, but again it’s a really special place. Having no real expectation of what Kings Canyon would be I find myself really loving it here. I love the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere and being less commercialised than Uluru, at times throughout our stay it felt as we were the only people here. Also I must admit I loved loved loved the rim walk, including the stairs and would definitely do it all over again.

On top of the world

Being our second night here we were growing accustom to the loud howls of the dingos in the area. I swear they were only a few metres away at one point. Although people may see them as baby stealing, vicious dogs they generally stay away. Having said that there were a few or maybe the same one who had learned humans aren’t scary and was quiet happy to roam around the caravan park at dusk. Of course the dingos won’t actually come close to humans, wrong! Looking for food scraps a dingo stealthy creped around our caravan and stole our garbage bag from dad’s feet. Mum screamed and dad jumped out of his chair, I’ve never seen him move so fast and he even landed in a karate pose, classic. Mum was pretty scared after that and had to have a companion when walking to the toilet at night, dad and I saw the ‘new experience’ side of it.

Next stop, Alice Springs.

 

Postcard from Uluru

The Rock

Dear Fellow Travellers

WOW! Seriously wow! I knew Uluru was big and magical but my memory doesn’t do it justice and neither do photos. It didn’t take long for all my Uluru expectations to be blown, to put it in literal terms it took about 10 seconds. As we were driving down the highway, BAM there it was. Still 50kilometres or so away dad and I couldn’t believe how big it is and we still hadn’t even arrived there yet.



Uluru at Sunrise

When you ask people who have been to Uluru, I guarantee you they’ll tell you that you must watch the sun rise and set over the rock and I couldn’t agree more. Starting our only day here with one of the best sunrise this country has to offer we were off to a good start.

Olgas at Sunrse

We chose to view the sunrise from the Kata Tjuta Dune lookout. Closer to the Olgas than the rock it was hard to make out the dramatic colour change of Uluru but with the rock sitting on the horizon it was stunning watching the sunrise behind it and breathe life over the desert. Just as beautiful as Uluru, the Olgas were gorgeous site changing colours in their own way as the sun rose. I must say and very good way to start the day.

Sticking to the Mala 2 km walk around the base of Uluru we were taken to many indigenous sites including scared sites used by both men and women. It was incredible to see the caves used by these people and the drawings and signs of life they left behind. As well as the indigenous culture surrounding the rock we also learnt how the rock was formed and shown marks where an inland sea helped shape it. Like I already said the Uluru is huge and walking around the world largest monolith I really came to understand why thousands of people visit a giant rock yearly. Not only is it super cool because it is a giant rock, it also has thousands of years of culture and history which only adds to its mysterious yet marvellous nature.

Although I could sit staring at the rock all day it wouldn’t be fair to the Olgas if I didn’t explore them. Instead of doing the 7km full circuit walk in the scorching heat we opted for the Valley of the Winds walk. A relatively easy walk (mum was ecstatic that she did it without trouble) took us along the valley floor and almost out the other end. With the walk ending at a small picturesque waterhole I found the best view to be the one behind me, looking back out into the desert with the Olgas towering over me. Don’t get me wrong I love Uluru and the walks there but if I was forced at gunpoint to choose which walk I preferred I would have to say the Olgas. Even though there were quite a few people there it didn’t feel as commercialised as the rock and maybe the whole valley setting added to its appeal.

Camels all ready to go

Of course our day at Uluru wouldn’t be complete without a sunset over the rock and what better way to do it than on a camel. Uluru Camel Tours took a group of around 20 of us on a sunset tour of the rock. Trekking through the scrub on my trusty camel, Alice, we wound our way around the desert stopping on a sand dune to get one of the best photos of the rock. As we wandered on mum and dad’s camel, Buddy, became quiet cheeky and even stopped the convoy to be tied tighter (he kept trying to eat shrubs). I also had a little giggle watching the British tour guide trying to flirt, it was a shame he wasn’t looking where he was going and tripped a couple times, didn’t really help his case. Before heading back to the farm we stopped on another sand dune where we watched the last of the sun sink behind the rock and it was spectacular. Being so close we saw the colour of the rock change from brown to orange to violet, absolutely beautiful. 

To finish our time in Uluru we were greeted back at the camel farm with drinks and damper and treated to a slideshow f the photos from our tour. A very outback end to very outback kind of day.

 

Next stop, Kings Canyon. 

 

Postcard from Coober Pedy- Opal capital of the World

Dear Fellow Travellers

Finally we’ve set off and our adventure is under way, first stop Coober Pedy.

This tiny town oozes charm and personality and if I didn’t know any better I would have thought it was a ghost town with the only visible signs of life along the main street but that is why Coober Pedy is special. Even though it is only a 9 hour drive up the highway being here feels like I’m on a completely different planet (coincidently Coober Pedy has been used in a couple of si-fi movies as another planet). Literally dirt, like no grass anywhere and over 1 million opal mines/holes dug in the area, Coober Pedy is definitely as unique as they come.

We spilt our only day between visiting dugouts, wandering the main street and opal shopping.

Crocodile Harry’s vs. Faye’s Underground Home

Sadly I can’t pick a clear winner when it comes to Coober Pedy’s best dugout but both Crocodile Harry’s and Faye’s Underground Home are well worth the visit.  After a short drive to literally a huge dirt hill we were at Crocodile Harry’s. Not really knowing what to expect and the with mum’s description “It’s full of artwork and weird collectables with drawing s all over the walls” I was surprised to see mum was actually right.



Carving from Crocodile Harry's

Harry’s huge dugout is covered with drawings, writing and carvings all done by Harry himself.  Wandering around his home was really interesting and educational about Harry’s life but also life out here. I presume he was somewhat of a ladies man or that’s what the collection of female backpacker underwear (complete with name and home country of said underwear owner) would suggest.



 

Faye's hand built pool

 

Faye’s equally amazing home has a much more traditional feel. Complete with 3 bedrooms, a wine cellar, lounge room, bar, pool and fire place (which works but can’t be used as it turns the dugout into an oven), Faye’s is literally a home underground. What makes Faye’s special is that Faye and her two friends dug this home themselves. They didn’t use any fancy machines or labourers, they used the traditional tools of a hammer, chizzle, blood, sweat and tears. 

Like I mentioned Coober Pedy is the opal capital of the world so it would be wrong not to shop for opals, right? Not wanting to go against the stereotypical tourist experience my mother and I had a lovely time browsing at these lovely gems, so lovely in fact we both broke our budget on day one to purchase one of these rare stones. I bought lovely opal ring, which I have not been able to stop looking at! 

Excluding the amazing opals and opal shopping the Breakaways are probably the main tourist destination for the area. Unfortunately we were unable to visit them due to recent rain and a bad road but from previous experience and the photos displayed around town the stunning region is like no other. Sadly our only way to see this amazing region was to buy the Red Planet movie, one of the si-fi movies filmed in the area and hey the movie wasn’t all bad.

  

Next stop Uluru.

 

 

 

"We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek the with our eyes open." -Jawaharial Nehru